The Story Of… Edinburgh Castle in Edinburgh, Scotland

Exclusive Interview by Karen Beishuizen
Photos courtesy of Edinburgh Castle

High above the city of Edinburgh in Scotland lies a castle: Edinburgh Castle. The earliest surviving building is St Margaret’s Chapel, but archaeological evidence has revealed evidence for human activity here since around 800BC, with a fortified settlement on castle rock for over 2000 years. Edinburgh Castle has been a royal residence since at least the late 11th century, but by the early 16th century it was falling out of Favor, as its exposed location and rocky terrain meant it was far less luxurious than other royal sites. Each August since 1950, the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo has been held on the castle Esplanade.

This grand military spectacle harks back to the castle’s military, and royal past, continuing the long tradition of using the castle as a backdrop for impressive events. The castle appeared in many movies and tv shows. When you are in Edinburgh, you must visit the castle because it is an iconic sight, with unparalleled architecture, views and history.

KB: Tell me the history of Edinburgh Castle. How was it founded?

The buildings and fortifications that now occupy castle rock were developed over hundreds of years. The earliest surviving building is St Margaret’s Chapel, but archaeological evidence has revealed evidence for human activity here since around 800BC, with a fortified settlement on castle rock for over 2000 years. This hillfort was already an important place by the Iron Age and the Votadini tribe who probably occupied the fort clearly had connections with the Romans. We don’t know exactly when the first stone castle was built, but it was certainly an important royal stronghold by 1090s. Historical sources refer to a royal castle known as ‘Castle of the Maidens’ in the 11th century.

We also know the castle was occupied by Queen Margaret around this time – she died at the castle in November 1093. Over the following millennia the castle has grown, buildings have come and gone, the castle has weathered 23 sieges, numerous wars, and its defenses have been continually remodeled and enhanced. For centuries it was a royal residence, but its exposed and difficult location constrained the development of lavish living spaces making it a less attractive location than such as Holyrood and Linlithgow Palaces. By the 1600s it became a military garrison – the ‘Fortress of the Kingdom’ – with a vital role in numerous battles and wars, right up to the 20th century. With the rediscovery of the Honors of Scotland in 1818 and major restoration work in the 1880s, the castle began to attract increasing numbers of visitors. Throughout the 20th century it grew into a major tourist attraction, welcoming visitors from across the world.

KB: Tell me about Castle Rock.

Castle Rock towers over the centre of Edinburgh, with the Old Town clustered along its tail and the castle crowning its summit. The rocky outcrop is a classic ‘crag and tail’ feature – a geological feature formed by glacial activity in the last ice age. The rock itself is basalt, the remains of a volcanic plug. The volcano itself was active around 350 million years ago.

KB: Which royals who used the castle as their residence?

In the medieval period monarchs did not live in one place, instead they and their court moved between different royal residences, depending on the time of year, current events, and where they were needed. Edinburgh Castle has been a royal residence since at least the late 11th century, but by the early 16th century it was falling out of favor, as its exposed location and rocky terrain meant it was far less luxurious than other royal sites. Holyrood Palace grew into a more favorable Edinburgh residence from this time onwards.
The earliest historic record we have for use of the castle as a royal residence is in the 1090s. Queen Margaret was resident in the castle while her husband was away in battle against the English. While staying at the castle she received the terrible news that her husband Alexander II, and her eldest son, had both been killed. She passed away herself just three days later, after a short illness.

David II invested considerably in the castle as a royal residence and its defenses. Inspired by castles in France where he spent much of his early life, he commissioned David’s Tower – a great stone tower that would have dominated Edinburgh’s skyline. Completed in the late 1300s, this housed the highest status royal chambers, until it was severely damaged during the Lang Siege of 1571-3. The lower two storeys of the tower still survive, buried beneath the Half Moon Battery. At the time the tower was built it would have been hugely impressive, the chambers inside providing great comfort to royal guests, but it quickly became outdated, and its exposed location meant it was cold, draughty and rather cramped.

James II may have commissioned the construction of a sauna – or ‘stove house – within the castle complex. There are payments and instructions for the construction of a stove house in the 1450s, its design and use possibly inspired by continental examples.

We know frustratingly little about James III’s time at Edinburgh Castle, but it is likely he spent much more time here than other Stewart monarchs. He was probably responsible for the development of the high-status buildings around Crown Square.

James IV was behind the construction of the Great Hall, built in part to celebrate his marriage to Margaret Tudor in 1503. If you look closely, you can see decoratively carved corbels supporting the roof beams, each displays symbols that represent the Scottish king and the English queen. James was a great patron of Renaissance architecture, who helped to reshape and update the castle, inspired by northern European examples.

Mary Queen of Scots sheltered in the security of the royal apartments while pregnant. On 19 June 1566 she gave birth to the future King James VI – you can still visit the tiny chamber known as the Birth Room.

James VI spent very little time at the castle but invested greatly in it as his ancestral home. A major campaign of work was undertaken in preparation for his Golden Jubilee in 1617. He restored the royal apartments, creating a ‘shrine’ in the Birth Room and ensuring the lodgings were of the highest quality. On the building’s exterior he added decorative plaques and carvings that celebrated the Stewart royal family.

For much of the post-Medieval period the castle was primarily a military garrison, rather than a royal residence. But royal focus returned in 1822 with the triumphant visit of Goerge IV. Great efforts were expended across the city in preparation for his visit, including at the castle. This was the first visit to the castle by a reigning monarch since Charles II in 1651. A grand ceremony was staged on the Esplanade, and the King was one of the first visitors to see the newly rediscovered Honors of Scotland.

KB: Tell me about St. Margaret’s Chapel.

St Margaret’s Chapel is the oldest building in Edinburgh, dating to the early 1100s. It’s dedicated to Scotland’s only royal saint, a woman who still inspires much love and devotion. The chapel was probably commissioned by her son, David I in the 1130s. It is a small and simple building, with a fine Romanesque chancel arch surviving inside. It is possible the chapel once formed part of a larger tower which together formed the heart of the early royal castle on the summit of castle rock. The chapel survived siege and warfare but by the 1500s, it was being used as a gunpowder store and its original purpose was long forgotten. Then in 1845, its heritage was rediscovered, and the building lovingly restored as a place of worship. The chapel continues to fulfil that role today, with services, baptisms and weddings held inside. It also serves as inspiration for a remarkable institution – the St Margaret’s Chapel Guild, formed in 1942 to follow in the saint’s charitable footsteps.

KB: Tell me about The Great Hall.

The Great Hall was completed around 1512, however much of what we see today is a result of major restoration work by architect Hippolyte Blanc in the 1880s. It was built for James IV and Margaret Tudor. The hammerbeam roof is one of the most important and impressive in Britain. Scientific analysis of the timbers has shown that they came from Norway, felled around 1510. Sadly, James IV had little time to enjoy the Great Hall – but we have records of a splendid feast held there in June 1513 to mark the signing of an alliance with Irish chieftain Manus O’Donnell.

In the 1650s the Great Hall was converted into soldier’s barracks, and for centuries afterwards its former grandeur was lost as it was turned over to military use. It was not until the 1880s that efforts were undertaken to restore its former glory. However, the architect’s ideas of restoration were not as accurate or authentic as we would be today. His vision of a medieval parliament hall is somewhat fanciful and may not represent the hall’s appearance as it was under James IV.

KB: Tell me about the Military Tattoo.

Each August since 1950, the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo has been held on the castle Esplanade. This grand military spectacle harks back to the castle’s military, and royal past, continuing the long tradition of using the castle as a backdrop for impressive events. The Esplanade was used as a military parade ground from the 1750s onwards. Today, the Tattoo is world-famous as a great spectacle showcasing the talents of musicians and performers from across the globe. You can find out more about the Tattoo’s history on the edin tattoo website under history. here:
KB: What movies or series did the castle appear in?

The castle is famous world-wide and has appeared in countless TV shows and films. T2 Trainspotting, The Lost King, Burke and Hare, Filth. You can find more details on IMDB (note this is not exhaustive) under location Edinburgh Castle.

KB: I step inside the castle. What do I see? Walk me through it.

As you approach, walking up hill along the Esplanade, the castle appears to grow out of the rocky outcrop in front of you. A series of gates, defensive walls and towering stone buildings lie ahead. First you cross the drawbridge and through the gatehouse. The short passage opens out into a cobbled courtyard – the massive, curved wall of the Half Moon Battery towers above you, and the ancient routeway curves around the side and leads further into the castle. Next you reach the Portcullis Gate – parts of this defensive tower and gateway date to the 1300s, but it was heavily restored and remodeled in the late 1800s. Once through this imposing gateway you reach the middle ward – which would once have been a hive of activity, with stables and a smithy. Later, this area housed guardhouses and stores for the military garrison based here. The Argyle Battery, built in the 1730s, is lined with guns – but these are not original armaments from the castle. Next to Mills Mount is the One o’clock gun, an important device to aid timekeeping and navigation at sea.

The gun is fired every day at 1pm (except Sundays, Good Friday and Christmas Day). Most of these outer defenses date to the castle’s more recent past – from the late 1600s onwards, but they give you an idea of how the medieval castle’s numerous lines of defenses would have looked. The ancient cobbled routeway continues to wind around castle rock, climbing up towards the summit – and the royal apartments. You pass through another stone gateway – Foog’s Gate – which provides an entrance through the inner line of defenses to the summit of castle rock. St Margaret’s Chapel immediately comes into view on your left, sitting on one of the highest points – it is both humble and hugely impressive as one of the smallest, but oldest buildings at the castle. In front of you is the Scottish National War Memorial – once a barracks block, and in the medieval period a great chapel, it is now a national memorial to all Scots who have lost their lives in conflict.

The huge bombard of Mons Meg sits in front of St Margaret’s Chapel, protectively facing out into the city. The views from this platform (on a clear day!) are sensational, looking out across the Firth of Forth, Fife and the Ochils. As you continue round, you eventually reach Crown Square – at the very heart of the castle. This was the innermost part of the castle, once home to the royal apartments, a chapel, the great hall and the Armory (now Queen Anne Block, with the prison vaults below). It is the most secure and high-status part of the castle, as reflected in its fine architecture and its prominent position perched on the highest point of castle rock and overlooking the city. From here you can explore a suite of apartments on the ground floor of the Palace block, get a peek of the Honors of Scotland (Scotland’s crown jewels) and be awed by the imposing interior of the Great Hall.

KB: Why should people visit Edinburgh Castle?

Because it is an iconic sight, with unparalleled architecture, views and history.

Check out Edinburgh Castle’s website: HERE
Find the castle on Facebook: HERE
Find the castle on Twitter: HERE

Click Here to Order Boxing Interviews Of A Lifetime By “Bad” Brad Berkwitt