The Story Of… John’s of 12th Street in New York City
Exclusive Interview with Robert Rundbaken By Karen Beishuizen
Photos courtesy of John’s of 12th Street
John’s of 12th Street was opened in 1908 in New York City’s Lower East Side. It was opened by John Pucciatti and has been in the same location since. The restaurant is a New York City institution and one of the oldest establishments in the city. Lucky Luciano convened the heads of the five largest gangs at John’s in the back room. It was at this meeting that Luciano organized the Five Families into what we now call the “Mafia”, but they call it “La Cosa Nostra” (Our thing). Masseria, Luciano, men from Murder, Inc., Lansky, Rothstein, Siegel, Vito Genovese and others frequented John’s.
Famous guests have dined at the restaurant over the years: Frank Sinatra, Al Pacino, James Gandolfini, Russell Crowe, Jack Kerouac, Sam Shepard, Patti Smith, Muhammad Ali, Joe Frazier, Danny Kaye, Alan Ginsberg, Anthony Bourdain, Carol Burnett and more. When you are in New York and looking for a New York institution that serves the best family style Italian food in a cozy candlelit room rich in ambience and history, look no further!
KB: Describe to the RSR readers how John’s of 12th Street was founded and by who?
John’s of 12th Street was opened in 1908 in New York City’s Lower East Side (LES). We are in what is generally recognized as the East Village. Back at the turn of the century, the LES was a magnet for Italian immigrants. It was opened by John Pucciatti and has been in the same location since. The restaurant is a New York City institution and one of the oldest establishments in the city.
KB: When did you become the owner and have you changed anything?
We took over in 2017 when the previous owners, Nick and Judy decided to retire. Nick and his partner Myron bought the place from the original family in 1974. I have three partners; one has been working here since the early 1980s. I have been coming here since the 1980s and my wife and I had our first date there.
A place like John’s is a legacy establishment and we are careful not to change much. Judy installed a vegan menu about 15 years ago which was the biggest change. Otherwise, we have kept our tradition alive. Our place looks much as it did a hundred years ago.
KB: What is the story with mobsters Lucky Luciano, Meyer Lansky and others?
In the early 1920s when alcohol was banned there were a number of gangs of hoodlums and thugs all over the city. One gang was run by Giuseppe (Joe) Masseria. His top lieutenant was Charles “Lucky” Luciano. Luciano was a protege of Meyer Lansky and Arnold Rothstein. Lansky and Rothstein as well as Bugsy Siegel, Louis Lepke, Albert Anastasia, Abe Reles and others ran Murder, Inc. Rothstein and Lansky encouraged Luciano to get rid of the old world Masseria. Which they did rather gruesomely. After another gang boss was eliminated, Luciano convened the heads of the five largest gangs at John’s in our back room. This was in the early 1930s. It was at this meeting that Luciano organized the Five Families into what we now call the “Mafia” but they call it “La Cosa Nostra” (Our thing). Masseria, Luciano, men from Murder, Inc., Lansky, Rothstein, Siegel, Vito Genovese and others frequented John’s.
KB: What is the best on the menu and why should people go for that?
Tough choice. Our Chicken Parmigiana is signature and a great choice for first timers. I would also recommend our lasagna, which I die for. The Pappardelle and Tuscan Ragu is a favorite of Guy Fieri and featured on Diners, Drive-ins and Dives. Fettuccine al Fredo or our Linguine with White Clam Sauce is amazing.
KB: Which famous guests have visited John’s over the years?
Too many to count. Here’s a short list: Frank Sinatra, Al Pacino, Fiorello LaGuardia, James Gandolfini, Russell Crowe, Jennifer Connelly, Jack Kerouac, Sam Shepard, Patti Smith, Muhammad Ali, Joe Frazier, Danny Kaye, Eve Babitz, Joan Didion, Pete Townshend, Alan Ginsberg, Alan Cummings, Gene Simmons, J.B. Smoove, Michael Feinstein, Anthony Bourdain, Carol Burnett, Melissa McCarthy, Dr. Cornell West.
KB: Which movies and series has the restaurant appeared in?
The Sopranos, Boardwalk Empire, Can You Ever Forgive Me, A Beautiful Mind, Crashing, Girls, Mayor, Get Gotti, Parts Unknown.
KB: Describe for the RSR readers what they would see on a visit to John’s.
John’s is housed in a tenement style building dating back to the late 19th century. When you walk in you see our dining room stretching back to the bar area. The room is much as it was in 1908. The floor tiles and wall terrazzo are all original imported from Italy. On the walls on either side near the ceiling are hand painted murals depicting the provinces of Italy. Tables and booths line both walls. Each table has white tablecloths (burgundy during the holidays) and candles. As you approach our bar, built in the mid 1920s, there are two more booths opposite. Walk towards the back room and you pass the bathrooms. “Gents” on the left. “Ladies” on the right.
You then enter our back room where we also host large parties. The room is dominated by our “candle mountain.” The candles started in the front window as a signal to patrons if it was safe to ask for alcohol referred to as “special dessert.” Diners were directed to our side door and upstairs to a small apartment to secretly enjoy “dessert”. Mama John made homemade wine and whiskey in the basement and the bottle holding our candles still contains the stuff.
KB: Why should people visit John’s of 12th Street?
People visit New York because it’s New York City, very famous, very historical. We are a New York institution that serves the best family style Italian food in a cozy candlelit room rich in ambience and history. We are in New York. You can’t go anywhere else to get this most New York of experiences.
Check out John’s of 12th Street’s website: HERE
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